Young Vision: N.LEGENDA
Interview with the founder of the brand Olga Kapitonova
«I don’t see the brand N.LEGENDA as my job, it’s like a parallel world for me»
How would you describe your brand in three words?
- Laconic cut;
- Unpredictable predictability (each time, when creating something new, we don’t limit ourselves, because nobody knows where the inspiration will come from or sometimes there can be seemingly unusual materials for us, but still in the end everything turns out to be according to our style);
«We try to make things that will never be out of fashion, but will become vintage clothes»
What is your background and what was your route to designing clothes?
My parents are both engineers, father has been fond of photography, mother has been fond of sewing clothes, so now I combine these both professions. I have graduated from the St. Petersburg University of Technology and Design as an engineer-constructor of clothes. My Diploma work gained number one prize as the «Best creative work» at an All-Russian student competition. Then I did two years of Master’s degree studies and my Master’s thesis was «An image as the synthesis of dress and body». I have worked as a stylist, I made clothes for shootings, and also limited edition clothes for magazines and competitions. As for the idea of establishing the brand, I guess, it has always been with me, I can’t think of a particular moment. I don’t see the brand N.LEGENDA as my job, it’s like a parallel world for me.
«Creating something new, we don’t limit ourselves, as nobody knows where the inspiration will come from»
Could you describe how you create your clothes? What fabrics do you use?
First the idea of a new collection is born, everything is kept in mind. We source fabrics from a variety of vendors, small shops, pick up various objects, decorations — everything that fits our perception of the future collection. Thoughts are not specific at this stage, there is only a general ideas of the collection and the looks. Then, without sketching, we make about five models, which are most clearly envisaged, directly into the fabric. Sometimes they can turn out to be totally different and hard to match to each other. Then, on the basis of these models, we do the sketching of the entire collection. When almost everything is ready, the fitting is arranged and the latest revision is done. At the very end we usually add another one or two things.
We work in a small workshop, our collections feature a lot of hand-crafted work, we sew everything ourselves. We enjoy experimenting with materials and textures. We mainly use natural fabrics and yarn, except for the fabrics with special effects (glossy and other textures).
«The collection comes out of a variety of small particles — people and their bodies, travel, events, art, fabrics, colour combinations»
What is the most challenging part of your work?
The most challenging part (smiling) is to answer your question of what is your collection about, because it is difficult to describe in a couple of words what we have gone through during all this time.
What do you enjoy most in your work?
The best part is to start a new collection. It is most enjoyable to choose, to match, to gather a collection into a single unit.
What has been the highlight of your brand or you as the designer so far?
We have learned to express ourselves freely.
Could you tell us about your latest collection? What was it inspired by?
The collection «ISSUE 6″ came out suddenly, and it’s a bit experimental — evening dresses — this is not what we usually do. We used only black & gold colours. The collection is saturated by the hippie movement, is inspired by nature — the smoky light windy silk dresses, water texture, melting gold, streamlined shapes, flowers. The collection is about internal struggle and external peace. Draped dresses are hand crafted, some textiles are painted by hand as well.
In comparison, the new collection «ISSUE 7″ appears to be futuristic, artificial: voluminous plaster forms — as if sculpted, vibrance of colour, graphic lines.
We have worked with metal, plastic, leather, and fur.
«The beauty is in slight imperfection, carelessness»
Where do you usually find inspiration for your collections?
Basically, all the ideas come while traveling or during an everyday walk to work. I put the song on «repeat» and assemble my thoughts. The collection comes out of a variety of small particles — people and their bodies, travel, events, art, fabrics, colour combinations. With regard to cutting, it is each time the synthesis of dress and body, based on psychology. An image is seen as one of the major categories of psychology.
When creating a collection, I always imagine how it will look in photographs, what effect and impression it will give.
Do you have style icons?
No, we are not affected by any personalities.
What is your idea of beauty?
The beauty is in slight imperfection, carelessness.
Who are your customers?
Most of them are people of creative professions.
Who would you like to see wearing your clothes?
Probably, it’s better to say not who, but where. I would like to design clothes for the video production (video clips, movies). I love being set a specific task, an idea that you need to fulfil, which is to correlate with the overall picture, and so on.
What are your plans for the nearest future?
To successfully present the new collection ISSUE 7.
Where do you sell your clothes?
We sell in Russian showrooms and are planning to open an online store.
Photos are provided by N.LEGENDA